Royal Cremation, Bali, November 2013
The Balinese people believe that cremation is a purification ceremony that returns the body to the elements of the universe and releases the body so that they may reincarnate. A cremation is an occasion for festivity, and not mourning. The ceremonial burning of the corpses of the dead allow their souls to be liberated, reach the higher worlds, and be available to assume their role as better beings.
We happened to be in Ubud during a royal cremation, “palebon agung". It was a celebration attended by thousands of people. We spoke with members of the family. They explained how "lucky" we were to be here for this event. Royal cremations did not occur frequently. They told us to enjoy ourselves. They were honouring, Tjokorda Istri Sri Tjandrawati, the wife of the prince, who had recently passed away.
The streets were filled with people, and there was an almost carnival-type atmosphere. Hawkers were literally selling everything. These ladies were selling sarongs. A good choice since people were to be dressed traditionally.
Jim, just like Superman in a phone booth, made a quick change into his favourite piece of Balinese cloth, as we approached the gathering.
This lady was selling ice, cold water which she was carrying in a bucket on her head.
Another practical choice considering it was one of the hottest days I had experienced.
This lady had a huge variety of items for purchase, just in case you might like a hat to keep the sun off of your head…and while you are at it, why not pick up a few necklaces or carvings or hand crocheted tops or…
These men are selling small toys for children. There was also the balloon seller, and the many, many, many choices of snacks.
These treats travelled by scooter.
Maybe some corn, washed down with some water.
Or various sliced fruits and toasted seeds.
How about some sunglasses or maybe a homemade sweet treat. The vendors were men and women representing all ages.
The sarcaphagus was majestic, and colourful. Its 7.5m wooden form was in the shape of a purple buffalo. Handmade, it was a masterpiece
exhibiting fine details.
Generally taking several months to build, these were prepared by many, many, hands in just a few weeks.
The cremation tower or bade, reached 25m in height,
and was exquisitely crafted. It had 9 tiers. Eleven tiers would be used to honour a ruling king. Main roads in Ubud were closed to vehicles during the procession. Electricity was shut down and cable poles taken down to allow the tower to proceed unblocked. Even with all the precautions in place, we watched people get hit from ceramic roofing tiles that were knocked by the tower and came crashing down onto the crowd.
More Royal family members arrive.
Two Hindu high priests were leading the ceremony. Blessings were made by religious leaders,
and family members.
There was ceremonial music.
Condolences lined the streets
in every direction.
Thousands of men
represented many rural villages.
One hundred men at a time would carry the sarcophagus
and the cremation tower through the streets to the cremation site.
A band followed along behind playing music.
Everyone had cameras
and were snapping
photos.
The casket was ceremoniously raised by several hands, and put into the top of the cremation tower.
The sarcophagus and the cremation tower began to wobble and make their way through the streets upon the many hands of the village men. It made us think of the running of the bulls in Spain. The streets were wall to wall people, and when the men lifted their burdens, they ran ahead. Every 100 m or so the men would rotate and fresh arms would take their turns at carrying. The police were blowing whistles and moving folks out of the way to keep everyone safe. At one point, I was lifted off of my feet by a local person to whisk me away to safety. The band’s music, coupled with chanting, the whistles and the voices of 1000s of people, resonated a cacophony of sound.
In the background you can see the firetruck spraying water to help ease the heat. The procession was about 2km in incredible heat.
The casket was removed from the tower and carried to the sarcophagus.
Community members,
dancers,
and family members paraded around the sarcophagus bearing gifts that would be sent with the deceased, paying their respects.
The prince and his daughter posing for photos.
The remains are cleaned with coconut water and blessed. The ashes were taken to the nearby coast and ceremoniously sent off to sea, where she would begin her next life. The strength of their faith, and the beliefs with which they live their daily lives was so evident during the entire celebration. We were honoured to have been part of this event.
